In my travels across the world I have been fortunate to see some wonderful sights and meet a whole host of interesting people..... from Alaskan children playing on a beach at the edge of the Arctic in the eerie light of the midnight sun ..... spending time with the Jewish Community in Brooklyn New York, visiting their homes and participating in their family celebrations....... sitting on the baked earth floor of a desert dwelling in Rajasthan, (India) eating breakfast with the village women, who at sunrise walk the sands in search of kindling for their cooking fires.....and seeing the white toothed smiles of three young boys playing in the townships of Johannesburg, a ray of hope in the stark landscape of tin shed dwellings and barbed wire fences.

 

These snap shots of my experiences begin to tell the story of why I travel and take pictures, not only to share my adventures but to capture the essence of what is here today so others can see tomorrow.

 

    

 

 

Morocco April 2002

 

Morocco is a country of contrasts, a taste of Africa against a backdrop of Islamic culture. Exotic sights, which take you on a journey, back through time as you wander the labyrinth of streets in the medinas, trek climb and ski in the mountains or venture into the desert by 4 wheel drive.

 

My travels began in the coastal town of Tangiers , which commands a strategic site on the Strait of Gibraltar . Tangier is a mix of Moroccan and European culture. Uphill from the port is the medina; the streets lead through to the Grand Succo, which is the centre of life and a link to the new town. The Ville Nouvelle (new town) saw its heyday in the 1930’s and is largely unchanged. A good way to experience this is to sit in one of the street cafes or patisseries along the Blvd Pasteur. And in the evening walk along the Terrasse des Paresseux (Idlers Terrace) that provides a panoramic view over the port, Gibraltar and Spain , a place where the locals come for an evening promenade. 

                                                                                                              

 

After a day in Tangiers it was time to catch a berth on the Marrakesh Express for a ten and a half hour ride through the night. Marrakesh moves to a different beat sitting at the gateway to the desert, against a backdrop of the snow capped Atlas Mountains . The most famous landmark is the Koutabia Mosque 70m high, which can be seen for miles in any direction, attached is a paved and flower garden offering a quiet respite.  The street opposite leads into the wide-open square of Djemma el-Fna. During the day juice sellers and stalls of fresh figs and dates surround it. As the sun begins to set the red earth walls surrounding the medina illuminate, food stalls move in, smoke begins to rise and the aromas of fresh fish; brochettes (skewered meat) and steaming snails mingle in the air. Acrobats, jugglers, storytellers and musicians commence the street cabaret. Surrounded by potions are the herbalists, veiled women offer henna tattoos and the haunting melody of snake charmers carry deep into the night. If this sounds too much you can sit at one of the rooftop restaurants and watch the scene unfold. 

 

            

 

The souqs of Marrakech offer a wide variety of crafts, leather, silverware, pottery also carpets and kilims, wall hangings made by Berber women. As you wander the streets you will be able to watch craftsmen at work usually in a narrow opening of a shop or small courtyard. At the dyers souk multi-coloured wools and fabrics hang out to dry.

 

   

 

Souqed out it was time to venture into the countryside. Hiring a 4wheel drive accompanied by Brahim, a Berber, our driver and translator, we went into the High Atlas.  The mountain villages are home to the Berber tribes people, their mud brick dwellings cling precariously to the mountainsides. Like mountain goats the children race sure-footed across slopes. Some areas are more fertile; this enables the people to grow wheat, fruit trees and other crops, also grazing for a cow and some sheep.

We stayed in Imlil a small town in the Mizane Valley . This area is popular for trekking, it contains the highest peaks of the region Jebel Toubkal 4167m.The night was crisp the snow capped mountains glistened, from the rooftop of our small hotel you could hear laughter accompanied by a drum beat echoing from the villagers homes.

 

It was hard to leave behind the blossoming fruit trees and crystal clear mountain streams for a city but Fes was calling. The medina of Fes el Bali, is one of the largest living medieval cities of the world with a maze of 9400 streets and alleyways. The only form of transport along the cobbled streets is the mule, listen out for the drivers cry or be knocked off your feet by its load. By following your nose you’ll find the tanneries. A sprig of mint helps to sweeten the odour. From a terrace above a leather shop you catch watch the men dipping the hides into the vats of coloured dye. Bags, jackets and babouches (slippers) the most common footwear worn by both sexes are made from the leather. 

 

                 

 

In the midst of the medina is the Kairaouine Mosque and University, the mosque is said to hold 20,000 people. Staying within the walls of the medina you will be guaranteed to rise early, woken before dawn by the by muezzin (mosque official) calling the faithful to prayer. 

 

The trip had meant several early mornings to fit everything in. I left Morocco knowing one day I shall return as this trip just touched the surface of a country with a long history and so much to discover. The people are friendly, hospitable and will constantly ask you to share a mint tea. There’s tasty food such as Couscous and Tajines, (meat or vegetable stew) served in a conical earthenware dish. The souqs offer plenty of bargains you just have to get your bartering skills up to scratch before you go. And it is easy to travel around all you need are a few words of French a little Arabic if not hand gestures and a smile and you’ll have an experience to remember.

 

 

 

 

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